Car Audio Wiring

Car Audio Power Wire

Power wire is one of the most important parts of an amplifier installation. The proper gauge is the second most important consideration, next to fusing. The proper gauge should be used so that the amplifier is not choked off by the size limitations of the wire. If you use too small of a power wire you can get a large voltage drop between the battery and the amplifier. This voltage drop can cause distortion in the output and even cause the amplifier to shut off if it is equipped with under-voltage protection. When selecting a power wire, be sure to purchase one that has many hundreds or thousands of strands so that it will be easier to install and will not break when passing around sharp corners. Also make sure that the jacket of the wire is of a material that will resist chemicals such as oil and battery acid that it will encounter in the engine compartment.
When running power wire always make sure to cover it in protective wire loom in the engine compartment and to use rubber or plastic grommets when passing through any metal or abrasive surface. Otherwise the power wire can chaff and eventually short out.

Car Audio Speaker Wire
Speaker wire is also important in terms of size and strands for the same reasons but the jacket is not as important because it will not see the same chemicals as the power wire. When shopping for speaker wire, look for oxygen free copper (OFC) wiring. The size of your speaker wiring depends on the amount of power going to your speakers and the length of wire from the amplifier to the speakers. Most systems will need to use 16 gauge to 12 gauge wire.

Car Audio Signal Cables
Signal or RCA cables are also important for their noise rejection properties. Cables range in price from a couple of dollars to over one hundred dollars a pair. Most decently priced cables in the twenty to thirty dollar range (for a twenty foot pair) should be adequate for most listeners and noise situations. Twisted pair cables offer much better noise rejection properties as opposed to coaxial cables (the most common). Twisted pair cables consist of two small gauge wires that are twisted around each other in a helix pattern. Coaxial cables are one small gauge wire jacketed by a braided cable which are then both encased in a plastic jacket. The advantage of the twisted pair cables is in the twist in the cables. By twisting the cables noise picked up by one cable will theoretically be canceled by that same noise in the opposite cable. Twisted pair cables can be difficult to find so ask for them specifically when buying RCA cables.

Features and terms that may be encountered with regard to wiring are:
Butt Terminals: This type of terminal resembles a long barrel and is used to connect small gauge wires together. These type are crimp terminals and considered less desirable than soldering when soldering is an option. These terminals are also sometimes referred to as crimp connectors though that term can apply to many variations of crimp terminal.

Deep Cycle: A battery usually reserved for marine use that can be drained and replenished many times. While popular years ago many installers have relegated this battery to system use only with a traditional car battery for main power.

Farad (F): The base unit of measure for capacitor storage. One farad is very larger and is equivalent to one million microfarads (uF).

Gauge: This refers to the diameter of the wire. The smaller the number, the larger the wire. Sixteen is common for speaker wire, eight is common for average size amplifiers, while four gauge and below is used for large amplifiers. For reference, four gauge wire is about the same diameter as the average male pinky finger.

Gel Cell: A type of battery that uses a gel type acid. These batteries can be desirable because they may be mounted upside down without the danger a standard type battery would pose.

Heat Shrink Tubing: A type of insulating plastic that resembles a drinking straw. A small portion of this tube is cut off and placed on a wire before soldering. After the connection is soldered and cooled, the tube is slid over the joint and shrunk around the wires by means of a heat gun or hot hair dryer.

Microfarads (uF): The more common unit used to measure capacitor storage. One million microfarads is equivalent to one Farad.

OFC: An abbreviation for oxygen free copper. This is the most desirable wire to buy and there is really no reason to buy any other kind. As the name implies it is pure copper that is free from oxygen impurities.

Spade Terminals: A type of terminal used on most speakers. The type found on speakers are male spades while the ones used to connect to these terminals are female spades. These terminals are also referred to as quick disconnects though this name can apply to many different types of terminals that come apart quickly.

Voltage Rating: Referring to the amount of voltage a capacitor is rated to handle. The very least a capacitor used for reinforcement should be rated at is 16 volts while 20 volts is much more desirable and available on the slightly more expensive capacitors.

Basic Electrical Upgrades

A vehicle's electrical consists of many parts but the ones we're interested in are the battery, the alternator, and the power wiring. A vehicle electrical system is a 12 volt DC system. The primary source of power when the vehicle is NOT running is the battery. The primary source of power when the vehicle IS running is the alternator. This is a very important point so remember it. The primary functions of the battery are to start the vehicle and provide power when the vehicle is not running. Because the battery's stored power is so great it is important to treat it with respect. It's the automotive equivalent of a loaded gun. It has the power to stop your heart and can burn your vehicle up if an unfused power wire is shorted to ground. Always remember to disconnect the negative battery cable before doing any work on a stereo system. NOTE: If your radio has a security feature that requires a secret code to be input after power has been disconnected make sure you know this code before you begin.

Depending on your car's factory electrical system, you may not have enough power to run your aftermarket stereo system. You probably do unless you have a multi-megawatt system or an extremely tiny alternator. If your battery goes dead often after the installation of your new stereo you may have an electrical system problem. Have your battery and electrical system tested by a qualified technician. If everything checks out then you probably are in need of an upgrade. Here are some of the common problems and their likely cures.

Adding a Second Battery
Many people are under the impression that adding a second battery will cure their electrical problems. If one battery is good then two must be better. Right? Wrong. Remember that the function of a battery is to start the vehicle and to provide power when the vehicle is not running. The only thing a second battery will help you with is "parking lot" listening time. Basically it will provide you the additional capacity to run your stereo longer without starting the vehicle. After the vehicle is started the second battery becomes another load on an already overworked alternator. If you do replace your battery I would recommend getting one from Optima or one of the other specialty battery manufacturers such as Stinger or Rockford Fosgate.

Upgrading Your Alternator
Frequent dead batteries are a good indication that your electrical system isn't keeping up and you may need to upgrade your alternator. Doing so will give you more juice to run all of your electrical components, including your stereo system, without looking to the battery for help. The problem is your alternator is undersized for your new electrical requirements and has to look to the battery to provide the extra power, resulting in shortened battery life. Have a qualified technician verify this before investing in a larger alternator. Hopefully you can find a larger alternator from your vehicle's manufacturer that will interface with your existing system. Consult the manufacturer or the local dealer to find out about this. If not then you can look to the aftermarket manufacturers to see what is available. Check with Ohio Generator or Stinger for high output models.

Power Capacitors
Another solution is to add a power or Stiffening™ capacitor. This device acts as an electrical storage "buffer". It stores power until needed for high electrical demands such as heavy bass notes. If your headlights dim when you have you stereo cranked then you MAY benefit from one of these. This is most noticeable when music with a heavy beat is played. Your headlights will dim to the beat. This is being caused by a voltage drop that is being created by the large power demands of your amplifier(s). A power capacitor will help fill in the gaps in the energy required by your amplifiers. Because of their low internal resistance they can deliver a lot of power much more quickly than a battery can and can often prevent this voltage drop.

Pioneer Video Bypass

Since the high demand for the Pioneer parking brake bypass; I have decided to come up with a easy diagram for you to follow which will allow you to play videos while you are in motion.

1.  Connect the blue system turn on (Remote) wire to spade #85 (If you have or installing and amplifier connect your amplifier turn on (Remote) wire to this prong also)

2. Connect a grounding wire to spade # 87 which jumps and connects to spade # 86. Then connect the wire to a good ground.

3. Connect the parking brake wire from the head unit (Green Wire) to spade # 30

4. Finish installing your stereo and enjoy your video.

Installing a subwoofer in a pre-fabricated enclosure

This guide will cover the installation of one or more subwoofers in a pre-fabricated enclosure. It will also cover the process of hooking up an amp to power the sub.

The easiest way to add low-end punch to your car’s stereo is to install a subwoofer. This guide will cover the installation of one or more subwoofers in a pre-fabricated enclosure. It will also cover the process of hooking up an amp to power the sub.


The first thing to do is to put the woofer into the box. This should be easy as long as you got the right size enclosure. Before actually screwing down the speaker, be sure to connect the included leads to the terminal in the back of the box. Next, screw the woofer down tight into the front of the box and mount the protective grille directly over the speaker.

Put the box in the trunk. For the best sound, the woofer should be facing the back of the car. To keep it from sliding around, consider using high-strength Velcro strips to secure it to the trunk floor. If this is not possible, L-brackets may be mounted to the cargo floor, but be sure not to put any screws through the side of the box. However you decide to secure it, make sure that it is out of the way of anything you put in the trunk.
Now it is time to install the amplifier. Begin by mounting the unit in the desired location. This should be a flat area with a lot of open space so that the amplifier can cool properly. Do not mount the amplifier on the subwoofer enclosure, as the vibrations from the speaker can damage the internal parts.

The next step is to hook the amp up to power. Before doing this, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Hook the long positive power cable for the amp to the positive terminal of the battery. If the cable does not have a fuse, you should install one inline within three feet of the battery connection. Consult the amplifier owner’s manual for the size of the fuse. Run the fused positive cable through the firewall and back into the cabin. Remove any trim panels necessary and pull back the carpet so you can run the cable underneath. Once the cable can reach the amp, trim off any excess, strip the end, and connect it to the positive power terminal of the amplifier. For the negative cable, connect it first to the amplifier, then run it beneath the cargo floor of the trunk and connect it to a ground point on the chassis or floor pan.
Next, you need to connect the amplifier to the head unit. You should do this using the subwoofer pre-amp hookup on your stereo. This can be either a stereo (paired RCA plugs) or mono (single RCA plug) connection. Unless you have a mono subwoofer amp, you will need to use a paired RCA cable to plug into the amp. If your head unit has a mono RCA out, this means you will need to use an RCA mono-to-stereo adapter to plug the stereo cable into the mono jack. Run the RCA cable underneath the carpet on the opposite side of the car from the power lines to avoid interference. When you get the cables back to the amplifier, plug them in at the RCA in terminals. Before putting the carpet and trim back, run a small 16-18 gauge wire from the head unit amp remote connection to the remote control terminal on the amplifier. At this point you can replace the carpet and trim panels to make the installation look clean.

The last step is to plug the subwoofer into the amplifier. To do this, use 12-14 gauge speaker wire. If you have a bridgeable stereo amp, you should bridge the amp by plugging the positive wire into the positive terminal for the left output and the negative wire into the negative terminal of the right output. The actual configuration of the bridge will vary from amp to amp, so read the owners manual for specific instructions. If you have a mono amp, simply connect the positive and negative wires. Finally, plug the wires into the back of the sub. If you have more than one sub, you can run a length of stereo from one sub terminal to the other.
Finally, put the negative terminal back on the battery and fire up your system. You will need to adjust the gain and filters on your amp, if it has them. First, turn on the low pass filter (LPF) option. Then, turn the gain all the way down. Turn up your stereo until the speakers begin to distort, then turn it down just a hair until it no longer distorts. With the stereo playing at this volume, turn up the gain on the amp just until the subwoofer begins to distort. At this point, turn the gain down a bit. That’s it; you’re done, and good luck with your new subwoofer.

Soldering Techniques

Soldering is a simple efficient and reliable way to make electrical connections. The most common reason people are not successful in making good solder connections (joints) is that they do not properly heat the components which are being soldered. Some people apply the solder only to the tip of the iron. This will most likely result in a 'cold' solder joint. Cold solder joints will almost always fail. The only time that you should apply the solder directly to the iron is when the iron isn't conducting the heat to the parts. When the COMPONENTS being soldered are hot enough to easily melt the solder, you know the components are hot enough to make a good quality solder connection. Be sure to keep the soldering iron clean. The oxidized solder which will start to form on the outer surface of the tip of the iron is an insulator and will prevent good heat conduction to the electronic components. If you use a wet sponge to clean the iron, be very careful. If there is a large quantity of solder on the tip and you press hard on the sponge (compressing it a significant amount), as the iron slips off of the sponge hot solder may be thrown off of the sponge (and it still may be very hot). I think it may be better to use something like a coarse steel wool to clean the iron. I also believe that the wet sponge may significantly reduce the life of the tip.

Selecting a Quality Iron

If you want a really good iron, I would suggest that you buy a Weller WP35 iron. I have used them for a very long time and they are very reliable. A WP35 (approx $35) is a 35 watt iron which is suitable for almost everything that you will need to do in car audio or electronic repair work. DO NOT buy a $5 iron and expect it to last very long. The tips of cheap irons are usually just bare copper which quickly oxidizes and cannot properly conduct the heat to the components. The tips on the WP35 are steel clad copper which last for months at a time, even when they are used for more than 8 hours a day. The tips are also available in different sizes. The wider thicker tips are more suitable for soldering larger components.

Soldering Flux

Flux is used to help keep oxygen out of the connection and helps to float contaminants to the surface. It may also help to conduct the heat to the components. Virtually all solder designed for soldering electronics has a core which contains flux. When buying solder for electronics, make sure the flux is not an acid flux. Acid flux is used to solder non electronic components like sheet metal. Flux is also available in a paste form but I rarely use it.

Desoldering

If you have ever tried to remove electronic components from a circuit board (especially multi legged components), you know that it is difficult to remove the old solder without some help. The 2 least expensive, quickest devices to remove the solder are desoldering braid and the desoldering pump. Desoldering braid is simply a flux coated copper braid usually about .1"-.15" wide. To remove the excess solder with braid, you simply apply heat to the braid while the braid is in contact with the solder. The braid will wick the melted solder from the circuit board. The desoldering pump is a device which creates a vacuum to suck up the melted solder. The one I use has a spring loaded plunger which you 'cock' prior to each use. Then when the solder is melted, put the tip of the desoldering pump on the solder joint and release the plunger by pressing (depressing) the release button. For me, it works better if the iron is left on/in the solder while sucking the solder. This will result in a slightly shorter life of the desoldering tip but I have better results. I would recommend buying a 'Soldapult' brand desoldering pump. A large professional quality model is about $30 and will last a very long time. I've used mine professionally for about 5 or 6 years and they are still going strong.

Install car stereo satellite radio

How to install car stereo satellite radio without professional help.

Hooking up your satellite radio in your car is easy and there are several methods to go about it. The positives of doing this are that you do not have to pay someone to hook the system up and you often get similar quality results to those of professional installation. The obvious downside is that the aesthetics of the results may not be that desirable.

The four ways suggested here to get satellite radio in your car are: Through your stereo’s input jack, through your car stereo’s tape player, via an FM modulated transmitter, and through a portable stereo’s input Jack. The sections on powering your receiver, the antenna, running the antenna wire, and mounting the receiver are universal in all installations.

If you have selected a satellite radio provider and a satellite radio receiver, you are on your way. If you have not selected a satellite radio provider, you should search the Internet and visit the consumer electronics shops in your area. The content of the two satellite radio providers is slightly different and you may want to choose the one more suited to your tastes. The satellite provider you choose also will determine the receiver that you will be able to use. These receivers come in all shapes and price range and should definitely factor in your decision. Also, whether you want to use the installation advice here depends on the receiver you choose. Some retailers will provide free installation with a purchase over a certain amount; it is advisable to look into these deals where they exist.

Powering your receiver:
Your receiver will require some sort of input power. Usually, it is 12V DC. Check on the back of your receiver and then check at your local consumer electronics store for a cigarette lighter adapter. This will cost around $20.

The antenna:
It may be helpful just to buy the car adapter kit for your receiver. For most models this costs around $50. As strange as it sounds, there is a difference between your home antenna and your car antennae. An antenna designed for the car will invariably get better reception. You can, if you are set on the idea, try your home antenna and you may get good results. Antennas designed for the car often come with magnetic backings to facilitate installation. The car adapter kit is a good idea and it may come with other useful accessories. You have to make sure that the kit you buy matches your receiver.

Running the antenna wire:
Running the antenna wire is the most painstaking part of the installation. First, you need to decide where you want to mount the antenna and receiver. If you choose to mount the antenna inside under a window, you can expect to have reduced reception. Satellite radio will cut out normally under large bridges. Mounting the antenna inside will worsen this problem and may even cause cutouts on tree lined roads and mountainous canyons that would not normally cause a problem if the antenna were mounted outside. Where you live may factor into this decision. If you live in an urban area with large buildings, in the mountains or in a place with heavy forests, you will almost certainly need to mount the antenna outside the car. If you live among the wheat fields of the mid-west, you may be able to get away with mounting the antenna inside the car, but you will almost certainly have to place it under the window.

To run the wire, you can wedge the wire under the trim around doors and under seats. Be creative, your car is full of plastic pockets that have enough void space to hold the wire. Make sure that when the wire is run from the outside of the car to the inside that there are no sharp edges that will cut the wire. Also, it is necessary to leave enough slack if you mount the antenna on a moving exterior surface like a trunk. It may be, in some areas advisable to buy zip ties or use old garbage bag ties to hold the wire where the slack may get in the way. Often left over wire can be tucked into a void under a plastic cover. It is important that the wire in no way impedes your ability to operate the vehicle and it should not come into contact with heat elements such as those found in heated seats or ventilation ducts.

Attaching the receiver:
Some of the car adapter kits come with suction cups and other methods for mounting the receiver. Many times, these methods simply do not work. Depending on how much you value the interior of your car will determine how you want to mount the receiver. Preferably, you will want it close at hand and easily operable without distracting your attention from operating the motor vehicle. One method is to simply place the receiver in any available cavity in your dashboard. A second preferred method that may leave lasting marks on your dash is to install the receiver with adhesive Velcro. They sell this at any hardware store and in the tools section of your local discount retailer. This also allows you to remove the receiver when changing channels.

Connecting through your car’s input jack:
Check the front of your car’s stereo to see if there is an input jack. If one exists, check the owner’s manual (if you do not have it chances are it is available online) and go to your local consumer electronics store to find the cables you need. Simply power the receiver, plug it to the antenna and plug it to the front of your stereo. Congratulations, you have the easiest method of retrofitting your car with satellite radio. You are the envy of those who have to read on.

Connecting through your car’s tape deck:
This requires the purchase of an approximately $15 item that can be bought at any consumer electronics store. It looks like a tape that has a wire coming from the corner. This item can be handy because it can be used not only with your satellite radio receiver, but also with almost all of your other consumer electronics such as an iPod, your cell phone, or a portable DVD player. You may not love it, but your kids will when you have a Bug’s life jamming through your car’s stereo system.

FM Modulated transmitter:
This isn’t cheap. Generally, they are as hard to install as a car stereo. Also, if your car stereo doesn’t have a tape deck or an input, it may be advisable to either by a new stereo with free installation, or go with the portable stereo option below. But, if you love your current stereo and have a spare $200 and an afternoon give this option a try. How it works is the satellite receiver is plugged into a FM transmitter that broadcasts at low power just to your car stereo. So you can tune into a station like 88.5 FM and hear your satellite radio. You will have to follow the instructions that come with the FM modulator kit because they come in all shapes and sizes. Too detailed for a short introductory article.

Use a portable stereo:
This is the ultimate in going on the cheap. If you do not have a stereo that has a working tape deck or input jack and do not want to shell out the extra cash for a new stereo, this is the option for you. First you need to acquire a portable stereo with input jacks. Having done that, you will need to power it. You will need to research what kind of power source it needs. If it has a 12 V DC input, you are in business. Just use a cigarette lighter adapter like the one mentioned in powering your receiver. If it takes 120V AC (the most common) you can find adapters that will do that for you at your local automotive part store. Once you have powered the stereo, the receiver and hooked up the antenna you just have to make sure you do not trip over the wires. It might also be helpful to have a friend operate this contraption, as it may be difficult to do yourself in a moving vehicle.

Common car stereo installation problems

If a stereo isn't "playing right", it doesn't mean the unit is broken.

The car stereo has been installed, everything seems to have been done correctly, but there is still a problem. What can be done about it? If a trip to the dealer, or installer is not part of the available solution, or if the job was done by a friend, how should the troubleshooting be done effectively? The answers may lie within this article. Read through the following steps until all sample problems have been corrected or at least removed from possible causes of the issue at hand.

Maintenance and preventive car will help alleviate potential problems with any car stereo. All car stereos need a little maintenance to keep them performing the way they were meant to perform when they were initially installed.

1. All tape heads must be periodically cleaned, and there are kits available for this purpose. The kits may be purchased from auto departments at most chain stores; auto parts stores, or even the dealer if necessary. The kit usually contains an alcohol-based fluid, and cotton-covered swabs that resemble Q-Tips. Use one drop of the liquid on the cotton swab and gently wipe the tape heads for 2-3 seconds. This should be done after every 20 hours of tape play. This will keep road dirt, static electricity, and cigarette tar from gumming up the inner workings of the player.

2. CD players need maintenance as well. Some things to remember about CD players: skipping may be caused by fingerprints, dust, or scratches on the CD inserted into the player, so always be certain the playing surface is smooth and clean. To keep CDs clean, try using CD Saver by CRS. This kit provides a special cloth and a silica-based liquid to clean the surface of the CD. To clean the inside of a CD player, there are CDs that are made expressly for that purpose. Usually, these can be purchased at a dealership or auto parts store.

3. Speakers should be tightened from time to time, as they can attle loose from bumpy roads and general car vibration. Also check for debris on speakers that are mounted on the rear dash, facing upward. Road grit can accumulate, causing rattling and distorted sound. Also this grit and dust can get trapped between the speaker grill and the cone inside; if this is the issue, remove the speaker grill and use a hand-held vacuum cleaner to remove the offending particles. Replace the speaker grill and try the sound again. Also clean the speakers with a damp cloth or an Armor-All cloth and sound should return to normal.

4. If the stereo doesn't seem to be getting power, check the fuse box. Sometimes the fuse will burst from a power surge, or simply burn out. Changing a fuse is an easy task because the fuse box is usually located under the dash or in the glove box. Fuses are very inexpensive and are sold singly or in sets. Simply remove the fuse that is blackened, and match it to one of the new fuses purchased, place the new fuse into the fuse box and the radio should now have power.

5. Sometimes the sound may seem "thin" when the stereo is playing. This could mean that the left/right channel controls are out of phase. Reverse the leads on one speaker. If nothing else, the base response will dramatically increase.

6. Signal loss may occur if the antenna wire becomes loose or unplugged. Check under the cowl or front fender, and in some cars, the glove box. If the wire is connected, try disconnecting it and reconnecting it to be sure there is a clean, tight connection. Also, if this was a home installation, it is prudent to re-check any soldered or taped connections to be certain all wire still have a tight connection. One last thing to check on door speakers, see if the wire has been crimped or cut by the door. Often speaker wires can come loose and be tangled in the door threshold, causing distortion or loss of sound altogether.

7. If options 1-6 have been tried and there is still a problem with sound in a speaker, check to see if there is a short in the wire. If there is an uninsulated stretch of wire, or if the electrical tape has come loose, there could be dirt and loose wiring to blame. Something else to consider is that the uncovered wire may have touched other metal on the car, which is called grounding. In either case, clean the connection, re-twist wires together, and apply fresh electrical tape.

Diagnosing an ailing car stereo is fairly easy, but can be time-consuming. Remember, that 50% of car repair is patience. Go through the steps above in an attempt to identify and rectify the issue the stereo is having. Nothing is more frustrating that to pay a "professional" to do something that could have been done in the driveway at no cost. If all else fails, it might be time to go to a repair facility, or worse-the dealership.

Car audio and stereo: how to install satellite radio systems

Satellite radio represents the newest and best technology for receiving music signals. This simple guide will enable you to install a satellite radio receiver in your car.

There are several different types of satellite radio receivers available. This guide will cover the basics of installing plug and play tuners as well as hardwired in-car tuners. Plug and play tuners are units that mount on the dashboard of the vehicle. They typically come with one or more devices to connect the tuner to the stereo, as well as a cigarette lighter adapter and a mounting bracket. In-car tuners are usually rectangular boxes that will be controlled by the head unit and powered by the car power supply.

Plug and Play Tuners

• Step 1- Install the mounting bracket. Select a location that does not obstruct the driver’s view of the console or the road. The bracket should also be placed within arm’s length of the driver’s seat. To mount the bracket to the dash, first clean off the spot with alcohol wipes. Wait for this to dry, then remove the adhesive backing from the bracket and press firmly onto the dash for at least 30 seconds. Wait at least an hour before applying any weight to the bracket. The bracket can then be reinforced with screws or bolts if needed. Once the bracket is in place, slide the radio unit in place.

• Step 2- Connect the unit to the stereo. If your stereo has an auxiliary in port, use the supplied adaptor to connect the unit directly to this port. If you plan on using a cassette adapter, connection is as simple as putting the cassette into the stereo. If you choose to use an FM modulator, set both the modulator and the head unit to the same frequency.

• Step 3- Connect the antenna. If the antenna has an adhesive backing, use the same process as mounting the bracket. If the antenna is magnetic, simply place it on the roof of the car. The optimal placement for the antenna is the highest point on the car. Run the antenna wires through one of the door seals, but make sure the cord will not be damaged by the normal operation of the door. Once the cord is inside the car, run it beneath the carpet all the way up to the satellite tuner and plug it in.

• Step 4- Connect the unit to a power source. This is usually done by way of a cigarette lighter adapter. If you plan on hardwiring the power line, use crimps and appropriate fuses to make a good connection to a 12v switched power line.

• Step 5- Activate the satellite radio. This can usually be done online or over the phone. You will need the activation code for the radio. Once the radio is activated, it will function normally.

Head unit controlled Satellite radio

• Step 1- Mount the tuner box. Select a location that will be out-of the way, and easy accessible for wiring purposes. This is usually either in the trunk or under one of the rear seats. Use the included hardware to bolt the box into something solid. Be wary of puncturing floor panels, and be aware of what you are drilling into. Do not place the unit beneath any carpeting.

• Step 2- Wire the power lines for the box. Before you do this, disconnect the negative terminal from the car battery. Find a 12v line, either switched or non-switched, that you are able to tap into. It is best to use either the head unit power source or the cigarette lighter power source. To split the line, clip the existing cable at the desired location and crimp the three lines back together. Fuse the line before and after the split. Run the power cable beneath the carpet back to the tuner box and plug it in.

• Step 3- Hook the tuner box to the stereo. The unit should come with two cables: an RCA patch cable and a bus controller cable. Plug both of these cables into their respective ports in the tuner box and run them up to the head unit. Plug them into the ports in the back of the head unit.

• Step 4- Mount the antenna. If the antenna has an adhesive mount, first clean the area you intend to mount it on, then remove the adhesive backing and press firmly for at least 30 seconds. In the case of a magnetic mount antenna simply place it where you want it. The best mounting location is the highest point on the car. Be sure the antenna is not obstructed by any part of the car. Run the wires into the car through a door seal, then underneath the carpet until you reach the tuner box. Plug both the ground (terra) and satellite antenna cables into the unit.

• Step 5- Activate the unit by following the instructions provided. You will need the activation or identification numbers for the unit, so write these down before you call.

Do it yourself: how to install a car radio with cd changer

This article explains how to remove an old car stereo and install a new one with a CD changer.

Before you get excited and try to jam that brand new CD player into your dash, there’s some work that needs to be done. First things first; before going any further, remove the negative cable from your battery. This will keep you safe as you are messing around with the wires.

Next, you’ve got to remove your old stereo. This often requires manufacturer’s tools. Consult the old manual for removal instructions. Once the head unit is out, you will see a cage bracket that held the stereo into the dash. This needs to come out. It should be held in either by screws or metal teeth that are bent to hook into the dash piece. If this is the case, simply take a screwdriver and some pliers and bend back the teeth that are sticking into the dash. The cage should slide right out.

Inside the dash you’ll find a bundle of wires connected to a plastic connector. This is your car’s wiring harness. Unfortunately, it will not fit your stereo yet. However, in the new box, you should have a similar looking piece that fits the back of your new head unit. Most of the wires coming out of this stereo harness will eventually match a wire in the car harness. However, at this point we need to match them up. There are two ways you can do this. Preferably, you can pick up an adapter (available at many retail stores) that will clip into the car harness and get crimped onto the stereo wires. If you are unable to get one of these adapters, never fear, you can simply cut the plastic car harness piece off. Avoid this if possible, as the harness wires are not very long, and it will mean you have to crimp them with your hands in the dashboard.

Now, find the wiring information for your old stereo. It should be in the owners manual, but if not, you can find it online. Compare this with the wiring information for your new stereo. There should be listings by wire color and what the wire is connected to. On the wires coming out of your dash and the back of the stereo you should have at least: four pairs of speaker wires, one always-on power wire, and one ground wire. Most modern cars and stereos also have a switched power wire that will turn the stereo off when the ignition goes off. Other wires you might encounter are: an amplifier remote coming out of the stereo, a power antenna control also coming out of the stereo, or possibly a cellular phone control wire coming from the car or the stereo. Besides the wires in the harnesses, there should be a thick antenna cable. Now is a good time to check to see if you need an adapter to make the antenna fit the stereo.

If you’re lucky, the colors of the wires coming out of your stereo and out of the car harness will match up, If this is the case, all you’ll have to do is match the a red always on power wire with a red power wire, black with black, and so on. However, it rarely works out this neatly, so be careful you get the wires right. I would suggest temporarily taping them together just so you can get them all sorted out before you actually connect anything. Now, to actually link them, you need crimps (either red or blue butt-splice or closed-end crimps; wire-nuts will not do here), a crimping tool, and a wire stripper. Use the stripper to take a half-inch of insulation off each of the wires. If you are using butt splice crimps, simply stick the stripped wires you want to connect in either end of the tube, and use the crimping tool to squeeze the crimp shut at either end. Do this for each wire pair you want to match up and you should end up with a long bundle of wires that terminates with the connector in the back of your stereo. If this is all that you’re doing to your stereo, you can put the new cage in by bending the teeth out, plug the stereo and antenna into the harness and slide the whole deal right into your dash.

However, let’s say you have a CD changer to install. If you do, don’t put the stereo back in yet, cause you’ve got more work to do. First, you’ve got to find a place for the changer to be mounted. Some places to think about are in the trunk, under a seat, or under the dash. Think about how much you want to be able to change the CD’s, and how out-of-the-way you want it to be. Just don’t stick it anywhere that it might vibrate against bare metal. Once you figure out where you want it, mount it using the supplied brackets and screws. Take the RCA cable (the one with two plugs at either end) and the controller cable (probably resembles a compute cable), and run them to the dash. This can be very difficult, especially in newer cars, but if you put a little bit of time into it, you can make them invisible by hiding them underneath carpets, along molding pieces, or through body panels. Whatever you do, don’t run them into the engine compartment. When you get the cables run from the changer to the dash, it should be a cinch to plug them into the back of the head unit. Note that certain head units require a special adapter for a CD changer. At this point you can put the cage in if you have not done that. Just put it in the slot and use a screwdriver to bend the teeth out. Then plug in the head unit, hook the battery cable back up, and you’re done. Congratulations on your new stereo.